Cities of Colour

For many reasons this post has been long delayed. I thought I could easily write about Rajasthan well as I wrote about Tamil Nadu. Lets find out...

Diwali has always been the time for family vacations. Earlier it used to be spending time at Grandma's, bursting crackers and other shenanigans related to Diwali. However in past many years, the break has meant going to selected destinations in India for a tour.

The first day in Ranthambore was relaxed. On someone's suggestion we decided to make an hour's ride to Chambal River. I fall short of words when I say this, we did not expect to be the only four people on the shore, including two other people with a boat. The place was untouched by any tourist litter. The water was sparkling clean. The silence in the air took on us. We sat there for a long time, dad telling stories of dacoits (bandits) of the chambal and us trying to wonder how time has changed. Later in the evening we took the forest safari into the Ranthambore forest. Unlike Kanha and Jim Corbett National Parks, the terrain here is wavering. Its gonna be a bumpy ride (Harry Potter ref.). By the end of the safari, we were covered in dust. Next day morning proved to be a heavy workout session, as we climbed the Ranthambore fort to visit the temple sitting at the top.

Chambal River

Ranthambore Forest

Ranthambore Fort

The next destination was Jaipur. We would spend the auspicious five days of Diwali here, additionally visiting Pushkar and Ajmer for a day. I will not elaborate on the magnificent architecture of forts and palaces here, it is worthwhile to visit this city and enjoy yourself. We had reached Jaipur in the afternoon. We decided to wonder around Man Sagar Lake with a view of the Jal Mahal and spend good two hours in Amer fort, followed by a quick visit inside the pink city. I was happy to learn that the Walled city was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list in July last year. We would visit more tourist destinations in next two days, out of which I enjoyed the antiques from all over the world in Albert Hall Museum, climbing up to fifth floor of Hawa Mahal and the marvelous Jantar Mantar.

Amer Fort

Albert Hall Museum

City Palace

Jantar Mantar

The pink city can be visualized as a collection of many bazaar's (markets). Specialties in leather products, clothing, jewelry and many other varieties. Moreover, the view of the city changes during the holidays, as markets remain closed on two days of Diwali and the Hindu New Year. Excuse your inner feminist, while I say this. बाजारों को दुल्हन की तरह सजाते हैं (Bazaar ko dulhan ki tarah sajate hain) - The markets are decorated like a bride. It is not unbeknownst to many that brides in India dress extensively on their wedding day. However, the gist is to understand the beauty of the pink city during Diwali through the metaphor. Streets are lit, shop owners put up a show of wild decorations, eventually one market wins the best decorated prize. Any vehicular traffic is restricted during the two days, allowing pedestrians to walk around the city enjoying the decorations. While one can spot many foreigners roaming in the city, it was understandable that the locals enjoyed this time of the year the most. For once, we were lucky to spend evenings inside the pink city during Diwali. It is one of the many features of the city, true to only Jaipur.

The next three destinations were Jaisalmer, Bikaner and Jodhpur. As a fact, we visited more palaces and forts. By the end of the trip, we were overwhelmed. The forts and palaces, however similar, have unique attributes. From aspects of gigantic walls for security during warfare to intricately carved designs in stone and wood to the art and design of floors, doors, walls and ceilings, every palace and fort had distinguish cultures. Having visited Jaisalmer before, I was able to tour my family inside the fortified city. During architecture school, we had documented accounts of how historically the city survived to provide itself basic sources of light, water and energy, amidst a dessert. One of the crucial aspects of Jaisalmer fort I learnt during my visit was that the fort walls are built in a way that the enemy is unable to climb up, additionally the planning of the many doorways inside the fort restrict the enemy from a direct attack. From many view points of the fort, one can see the extended Jaisalmer city outside. An interesting transformation inside the city has been taking place for a few years since many owners convert their homes into hotels, rooftop or with a view especially. Apart from leather market and haveli's, we also enjoyed the desert safari ride. Jaisalmer was especially heavily crowded with many Indian tourists, which stained my experience of the place as compared to my earlier study trip taken in December '16. Although, the Rajasthani music and dance performances back at our tents made up for the chaos. The next day was followed by a visit to the Kuldhara (haunted village) and Gadisar Lake. 

When in Rajasthan I simply cannot excuse myself without talking about the food. Ker Sangri, a winter special sabzi, gatte ka sag, dal-baati, among many others. Bikaner of all places wins our heart by its very specialties such as Camel milk and ice-cream, Gulab Jamun ki Sabzi, Malai Roti, various types of Papad, aachar(pickles) and many other dried products. We packed enough to bring back to Mumbai. We ate at road side dhabba's and thali's at famous restaurants too, the satisfaction was divine. This, of course, took place alongwith visiting the tourist attractions. The next one and a half day were spent in Jodhpur, a day for site seeing and other for shopping from the markets. 

Junagarh Fort

Food of Marwar

Gulab Jamun ki Sabzi

Malai roti

Ghewar, traditional Rajasthani sweet

It isn't difficult to catch good food of every cuisine in Mumbai but there is something different about local food that makes you want to go back to the same place. One might think of Rajasthan for its palaces and forts, however, growing up with a Marwari neighbour, the image of their food, strikes my mind first. While I may not think of visiting these places again, as they will always be fresh in my memory. I might just go again to savor the food.